My 94 ezgo suddenly stopped moving and started shuddering. It sounds like the motor is turning, and when I removed the rear access panel I can see the motor shaking as though it's trying to engage, torques up, and then slips, before trying to torque up again, repeating a few times per second as long as I keep pushing on the accelerator. I removed the covers over the axle nuts, and the axles are not turning. Any ideas?
94 EZGO won't go
- Thread starter BobK
- Start date
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
Welcome to the forum.
If you're sure the motor is turning and the axles aren't then it's more than likely the splined coupler on the motor.
Also a bad connection or bad battery(s) can cause the shuddering but the motor wouldn't be turning.
If you're sure the motor is turning and the axles aren't then it's more than likely the splined coupler on the motor.
Also a bad connection or bad battery(s) can cause the shuddering but the motor wouldn't be turning.
Thanks for the reply. I can feel the motor trying to move the cart, which is why I believe the motor is turning. I have removed the motor, and the spline looks ok on the motor. I'm assuming the spline would be disintegrated, and that I'd see lots of metal filings, which I'm not seeing. Before I start taking apart the differential, how would I make sure that it's not an electical problem? I had already charged my 3 year old batteries (after almost a year), and kept tabs on the process, which seemed very normal (high initial current, slowly dropped to near zero over the course of several hours). The connections all look clean, no corrosion, all are tight.
I had backed out of the spot where I park it, and it worked fine. Then, I put it into forward, and that's when the problem started - very suddenly. I found an exploded view of the differential, and was going to check the input shaft next. But, I dropped the differential pan, and found some filings but not the amount I would expect to find if one of these large gears had failed. Given that, it made sense that the hub spline failed, but they're not turning. Very perplexing.
I had backed out of the spot where I park it, and it worked fine. Then, I put it into forward, and that's when the problem started - very suddenly. I found an exploded view of the differential, and was going to check the input shaft next. But, I dropped the differential pan, and found some filings but not the amount I would expect to find if one of these large gears had failed. Given that, it made sense that the hub spline failed, but they're not turning. Very perplexing.
HotRodCarts
Cartaholic
If the coupler or input shaft splines are stripped you wouldn't get any shavings in the rear end because the bearing is sealed on the input shaft. You could remove the snap ring that holds the input shaft in place and pull the shaft out so you can check the shaft in the coupler. If the coupler or input shaft is bad you should see some shavings in the end of the motor.
I would start with checking the forward & reverse switch connections and contacts. Look for signs of heat on the switch board. A bad connection or battery(s) can cause the exact symptoms you are describing.
I would start with checking the forward & reverse switch connections and contacts. Look for signs of heat on the switch board. A bad connection or battery(s) can cause the exact symptoms you are describing.
gornoman
Well-Known Member
All of this work being done and you haven't even tested the batteries? You must like wrenching!
If I read this right, your batteries sat for a year, but seemed to take a charge? Get a digital multimeter on those bad-boys and take some voltage readings. Also, let's get a reading at the cart charge receptacle. Even better yet would be a proper load test. Neglected batteries can show proper voltage and have NO capacity to pull a load.
If I read this right, your batteries sat for a year, but seemed to take a charge? Get a digital multimeter on those bad-boys and take some voltage readings. Also, let's get a reading at the cart charge receptacle. Even better yet would be a proper load test. Neglected batteries can show proper voltage and have NO capacity to pull a load.
You're so right! I did all that work, and found no problems. HotRodCarts mentioned the batteries in his first response, but I was in a wrenching mood. Lesson learned - I found a battery with only 4.15 volts. I also cleaned and tightened all connections. I'll look for a posting on the load test, I know I saw that subject discussed. Hey, at least if I have a rear end problem in the future, I know how to take it apart!! Thanks for your input, this site is fantastic!!