'94 Club Car V-Glide (non-resistor)?

Golf Cart Wizard: I need your expertise on my problem. I understand that the MCOR4 will eliminate the V-Glide only. I took the V-Glide off and examined it. It was very clean and shiny on all brass strips. I did adjust it, so it was tighter and perfectly aligned. It didn't make any difference. It still goes to half speed when you first push the pedal down. Apparently, the V-glide is bad. Replacement V-Glide is between $350-$500 dollars.

I have a few questions:

1. Will the MCOR4 work on my 36-Volt Resistor Wire Cart?
2. I do not have a hole in the frame where the new MCOR4 controller mounts.
3. Will the linkage have to be modified?
4. I have no clue how to wire it. (My old V-Glide has 4 wires coming out of it).

When I get to the point of wiring, will you help me?

Thank you..............Ron
 
Did you test the V-glide as described earlier? Or are you just guessing that it is the problem?

I already explained exactly how to wire the MCOR, if you don’t understand the previous post then you are probably better of finding a shop that can do the repair than attempting to DIY it.
 
Did you test the V-glide as described earlier? Or are you just guessing that it is the problem?

I already explained exactly how to wire the MCOR, if you don’t understand the previous post then you are probably better of finding a shop that can do the repair than attempting to DIY it.
OK...I tested the multi-Meter, and it is working perfectly. Traced the Black wire and White wire from the V-glide up to the Micro-Switches. Put leads on the Black and White wires pushed almost all the way on to Micro-switch and got no reading with the key on or off.

The Black and White (separate wires) run to a double connection with one wire going to the Micro-Switches than splits off and goes into harness going to the other side of the cart.

I unplugged both wires from the double connection and put probes into the Black wire and the White wire with key On or Off. AGAIN, no reading whatsoever on the meter.

What puzzles me is WHY does the cart run at 1/2 throttle or more. BUT no reading on the OHMS when testing by (pushing the pedal down from 0-5000).

Please advise and thank you for your time...Ron
 
That doesn't make any sense, if there is no reading coming from the V glide how could the throttle have any effect on how fast the golf cart goes? You need to double check your meter settings and that you are measuring the right wires.
 
OK.....Called a friend and he brought his expensive meter. Hooked directly to the Black Wire and White Wire coming from the V-glide.

Reading..............as you push the pedal down maybe 1/2" (900-5000 ohms). It seems the V-glide is OK. SO, what's next that could be causing the problem of only 1/2 pedal and up to full speed?
 
If you have the correct resistance coming out of the V-glide throughout the whole range of travel but the controller isn’t responding until halfway through the pedal then the controller itself is likely the problem. Double check all the high current connections and continuity test the motor A terminals, sometimes a bad connection/worn motor brushes will only start to work with enough power supplied, however that will usually be inconsistent not repeatable at a specific pedal position.
 
If you have the correct resistance coming out of the V-glide throughout the whole range of travel but the controller isn’t responding until halfway through the pedal, then the controller itself is likely the problem. Double check all the high current connections and continuity test the motor A terminals, sometimes a bad connection/worn motor brushes will only start to work with enough power supplied, however that will usually be inconsistent not repeatable at a specific pedal position.
Thank you so much for your help. I'll check those things this week and report back.
 
Yes...I disconnected the black and white wires and measured from them only. It registered 900-5000 ohms smoothly.
 
Yes...I disconnected the black and white wires and measured from them only. It registered 900-5000 ohms smoothly.
Should it read 0 to 50000 ohms smoothly? Mybe the 900 ohms to 5000 ohms is causing it to start at approximately 1/2 throttle.
 
Maybe, but usually controllers ignore values too close to the bottom or top of the range as you usually will never get an exact 0-5k, usually around 1000-4000 ohms is the actual throttle band. And even if so that would only be 18% throttle not 50%.

If you want to test that theory clamp the meter leads to the two V glide wires and jack up the rear end. Hit the pedal and see at what resistance the controller kicks in. Also listen for the solenoid click, listen if it clicks before the controller engages or at the same time.
 
Golf Cart Wizard: The motor has continuity between A1 and A2. Put in a new controller and same problem. Push pedal down a little ways and motor goes at a fast speed and spins the tires. As I continue pushing, it slows down but not real slow. I read somewhere on one of the forums that a guy bought a brand-new V-glide and it was wired backwards (push pedal down a little and it went full speed......pushed pedal to the floor and it slowed down to a crawl). He said he took it apart and sure enough it was wired backwards. He rewired it right and it worked perfectly.

I know the v-glide has been replaced at some time in the past. This could possibly be my problem. When I take the V-glide apart, what am I looking for as far as looking for it being wired backwards?

Thank you....Ron
 
That is possible but you said the V glide does go up in resistance as you push the pedal. If the V glide was backwards it would go 5k-0 (used on 1996+ carts/controllers). What is the model number on both controllers? If you can post a picture of the labels that would help. More likely the controller was also replaced with wrong model that is set for a 5k-0 throttle.
 
Yes....it goes up when pushing the pedal. Where is the label? I only have one V-Glyde and it is on the cart. Do I have to remove it? Can't take it off without removing a battery.
 
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