89 - 91 EZGO engine specs


New Member
Can anyone post or give me directions were to find engine rebuild specs for a 3pg engine. I need the piston to cyl clearance, Case, Jug and head torque specs. I bought a rebuild kit and it gave me no spes at all. When I checked the end gap on the rings it was almost ZERO and the piston feels to tight at the skirt. I have gaped the rigns to .012 for now.
I called the supplier and he was no help with specs, they didnt know and said to put it together they have had no complaints. With 0 gap on the rings I can imagine how long it would last. Any help and info would be appreciated. I have found specs for a 2pg wondering if they are the same. Thansk for any help.


I think the piston to wall should be .006 but not positive. I'll see if I can fine the exact clearance. Anyone else know???


Cartaholic - V.I.P.
5 to 8 on the bore to skirt and .016 on the ring gap. 24-28 ft lbs for the jug to block and 17-18 ft lbs for the head bolts.


New Member
Thanks for the help Nubs. I will set the skirt clearance to that, what there is now is about.002. Its good to know there are people out there willing to help..JP I'll let you know how it works out, hopefully no more knock and ring from the motor.


New Member
I bought a crank kit and jug kit with piston rings etc. With the problems I've had with these pieces Iam disappointed at the lack of quality of parts available for a rebuild of these 2 strokes.
Cart ran good until rings went out (porbably origional) so I decided to rebuild everything. I have rebuilt SBC and BBC race motors for my car so no problem? Wrong. The jug and pistion I received needed to be honed square as the piston would not fit in hole, 0 clearance at top and .0005 at bottom, supplier said just install we had no complaints or problems, the jug was made in India not sure of piston. Crank made in???
After machine shop honed and clearanced for piston, I fitted rings, new seals, bearings and case went back together. Iam babbling cause Iam Pi??ed.
Cart ran horrable. I tried to set timing but can retard only so much at pulsar plate. Timing shows, with light, advanced about 3 1/2 inches before timing mark on cover, however many degees that is. After retarding it all I could decided to drive it anyway. After about 15 to 20 min loud bang from motor and no more go. I pulled it apart last nignt and it blew a crank seal out, THE WHOLE SEAL OUT OF CASE.
I did the gm coil upgrade which made a better spark. Put old coil and sprak box on to check timing, no change in timing mark still way to advanced.
I feel now the new crank is indexed (keyed) wrong causing the flywheel to be installed advanced.
If any one has any suggestions or experience with the aftermarket crank let me know.
I need help figuring this out. Iam going to machine shop and check new crank to old crank to see if its indexed the same.
I will keep you posted with what I find. Wasting money on parts not correct is fustrating.