48 Volt Club Car DS Reman IQ Suddenly Stops

96ironman

New Member
Hey guys, my 48 volt Club Car DS has been trouble free for near 8 years. But today driving the cart, came to a stop sign, stopped then nothing. Pedal depresses, click sounds but no motion. In reverse, back-up horn sounds, pedal depressed, click sounds but no motion.

2 hours later, still no go. Same.

Cart details:

S/N 6Q0744-221685

Controller S/N: 529024

All batteries Trojan T-875 individual volts 8.5V - 8.6V

Pack voltage 51.5V

Tow/Run Switch

F/R Rocker Switch

MCOR

Any troubleshooting suggestions before I call a Club Car dealer?
 

Diode

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Find your solenoid across the big terminals should be a resistor if that resistor is hot replace controller
 

96ironman

New Member
Thanks for the quick answer Diode. So the cart has been sitting idle, power off for 2 hours. Should I try to move it first, then check to see if the solenoid is hot? By controller, do you mean the OBC On-Board Computer?
 

Diode

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Let’s do the test first and worry about replacing stuff later also re-read my first statement resistor hot not solenoid
 

Diode

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
I have a list of four or five things out in the shop and which pin to test ill post tomorrow
 

96ironman

New Member
Tried the OBC reset procedure listed in this forum without success. But found a cable to the motor decayed and separated.

motor-burnt-cable.jpg
 

96ironman

New Member
So, I fixed the bad cable and reconnected it. With the axel supported up, I tested the accelerator and get wheel spin in both directions. I thought I validated the repair, but when I put it on the ground. Same thing. Solenoid clicks but no go. Jack the wheels up and they spin. Put it down, nothing.

So I'm guessing here, could the motor have gone bad and is seizing up to the point of only slow rotation with the wheels up. Unable to move when the wheels are on the ground. That might explain why the cable burned off on the mount.

Any suggestions from this point?
 

Diode

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Of course after looking at the pictures again that terminals been getting hot for some time and if that wire touched anything else the controllers fried
 

Diode

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
The first four checks are done at the controller on the 16 pin white connector All should be pulled high or at 48 V

1 key sw
2 OBC lockout
3 throttle sw
4 throttle reostat
5 check for power at small terminals on solenoid
 

96ironman

New Member
So, spent the morning trouble shooting the cart. Using the Club Car IQ troubleshooting guide from Diode's website SCS MAIN. That thing is the best. Anyway, checked out the controller, solenoid, OBC, F/R switch, Tow/Run switch and key switch. All good. Perplexed, I went back to the motor and discovered the mount where the bad cable was connected was loose on the motor side. In fact, the pole had play in it and it spun with light resistance. When I moved it with power on to the wheels, they spun at high speed. It had to be the motor connection. I pulled the motor, took it apart and discovered this:

jSEgiSiUSRGzfp5UJfi7bA.jpg
e8GfPSJ8RyGUdXwE%++Zxw.jpg

First view is looking down the empty shell of the motor with the drive removed. The second view is a close up of the cable mounting point from the inside of the motor. The mount is broken loose and the connecting wires are twisted which is what was giving the mounting post the spin resistance.

Anyway, end of story is motor replacement.

Thanks for the help Diode.
 
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