36 Volt Club Car Golf Cart Has No Power

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sjp649

New Member
I just picked up an 87 36 volt Club Car. The golf cart has no power and barely moves in forward, will not climb any little incline, had to push it up the trailer to help it. Reverse, you mine as well not have it, because it doesn't work much at all, it is worse than forward. When the key is off and I push the acc. pedal, I hear 5 clicks of the micro switches. When it moves forward, I hear 2 clicks from the solenoids, but thats it. There were 2 cables that were damage that went from the f/r switch to the motor. I replaced them, but no difference at all. I ran out of daylight, so I thought I would ask here to see what yall think. I just charged the batteries all the way, I will post the battery readings soon. I put a pencil under the f/r micro switch and pressed the pedal, and got all 5 solenoids to click

Thanks in advance for the responses.
 
HotRodCarts

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
Welcome to the forum...

If all 5 solenoids are good you should start with taking individual voltage readings on the batteries and post your results.
 
S

sjp649

New Member
Okay after a full charge, I went out and did a digital readout. #1 is 6.23, #2 is 6.20, #3 is 6.27, #4 is 6.24, #5 is 6.18, and #6 is 6.29. The whole pack read out at 37.43. Voltage from #1 positive to where the reverse cable connects was 18.70
Using my voltmeter, I tested the solenoids(hopefully right) I put one lead on the small terminal and the other lead on the other small terminal for each solenoid. They all received 36+ volts when that solenoid was energized, except for #3, it only showed 3.5 volts. Also, when I put the voltmeter on both big post on solenoid #1, I'm getting 0 volts, but on 2-5, I get 37.28 volts.

I drove it around for a total of 3 mins forward and back, retested the whole pack was now 36.64 volts. It was still extremely slow, and reverse would barely crawl, had to use my foot to help it.

So, what do you think? The one solenoid needs replacing? Are those special solenoids, or can you get one at say NAPA? Batteries are stamped J3, so we are looking at 6 y/o batteries. I really don't have the money to replace them, do you think the y maybe ok, or replace the 2 lowest, maybe?

Thanks in advance
 
HotRodCarts

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
Ok it sounds like your batteries are on their way out. You should be seeing 6.35-6.40 volts one hour after a full charge without using the cart. When the pack voltage gets to 36 volts it's dead. Check the batteries to make sure they don't need water. If the plates are covered I'd say you need new batteries. The solenoids should read full pack voltage across the large posts when they're energized. You need to use 36 volt golf cart (continuous duty) solenoids.
 
S

sjp649

New Member
Thanks, I was afraid you would say that. The #3 solenoid is fine, I didn't have a good connection the first time, I just rechecked at had full pack voltage.
 
S

sjp649

New Member
I found one cell in battery #1 had no water, I filed it and put it back on charge. After about an hour, the charger showed the green light that the batteries are at full charge. Checked the battery pack voltage, it was at 44.9, then I noticed that the charge was still buzzing. I unplugged the charger, then had 40.9 volts. Better than before. So I put it in reverse, and it didn't move worth a darn on level grass. Went forward and it was still very slow. Drove it for 1 minute, checked voltages, it was 37.79. So, batteries still on their way out then. I don't have a bunch of money to replace the batteries, then find out that there is something else.

Thanks
 
S

sjp649

New Member
Being that it doesn't want to move in reverse, I hooked up the volt meter and put it in reverse and pressed the pedal, the voltage went from 37.72 to 35.45. When I press on the pedal, I hear the first click which doesn't move it, the second one jerks the cart a little, the third jerks it harder, but still doesn't move, and the 4th and fifth just click, no jerking of the cart at all. It almost acts like the 4th and 5th don't work, but they click and have voltage. I don't get it.
 
8

84 CLUBCAR

New Member
Hi SJP

Assuming that all your cable connectors are not corroded and are in good shape my guess its the solenoid contacts might
be badly arched and pitted. it sounds like the micro switches are working. the arching would cause a bad connection,
meaning not enough surface to conduct a full flow. if there is enough carbon buildup you wont get any electrical flow at all.
this can add a lot of stress and damage to your motor armature causing the same as your solenoids bad pitting and irreparable damage if this goes on too long. I hope somebody agrees with me on this just to back up the educated guess.
if you feel comfortable to pull one of the nonworking solenoids and open it up look at the large contact faces, if they are not to bad you might be able to if possible to remove the contacts and use a really fine emery cloth to re polish the surface.

I hope this helps
Brad
 
S

sjp649

New Member
I was told that my 4th and 5th solenoids are shot. Does anyone agree? They click and appaer to show voltage. Can someone tell me the exact way to test the solenoids?

Thanks
 
S

sjp649

New Member
Decided to change out the first solenoid, being I had no voltage reading across the big posts. Took the buss bar off, and found the 5th solenoid had a burnt area around one of the big terminals. Replaced both solenoids anyways being I had bought 2. Put it back together and it works great. Need to replace the buss bar now, it is almost split in 2 between the 4th and 5th solenoid. Goes about 12 mph, does that sound right?

Thanks for all the help
 
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