2013 Yamaha YDRE Won't Turn Over

dhead

New Member
2013 Yamaha YDRE I have replaced the controller, the relay, the wiring harness, bypassed the stop switch (It checks good) batteries 50.2v, motor runs when power applied direct to it, have two TPS that appear to read resistance and will vary voltage from 4.04v to ,29v. Bypassed what appears to be good ignition switch. still nothing. Relay clicks when run/tow switch activated, reverse buzzer works when in reverse but doesn't go all the way to ground (will drop to approx. 30v, then returns to 50.2v). disconnected charging safety plug. Have ordered Speed sensor for motor (Hitachi), new TPS and ignition switch. The only time the wheels (on jack stands) have turned over was when I was working on checking the TPS and stop switch. Happened one time and then stopped. Does any one have the silver bullet as to what is wrong. I have 3 controllers, one brand new but something is stopping the controller from turning on, Fuse is good. Supposedly worked on by 3 mechanics prior to me buying it without any luck.
 

Zman

Cartaholic
How many volts from solenoid to controller B+ when solenoid clicks on? Should be 50 volts. If not you may have a bad solenoid. I would suspect the TPS in put not working .
 

Zman

Cartaholic
You should get a diagram and check all inputs. ignition, foot switch , F&R , TPS all at controller pins. No inputs no output
 

dhead

New Member
I have a new TPS sensor arriving tomorrow. When it arrives I will put it on. Found a service manual that I downloaded which has been a great help. Once it is installed every component will have been replaced with the exception of the stop switch which appears to be good but I still bypassed it. Am installing the new speed sensor tomorrow even though I don't believe it would cause this issue. I am hoping that the new TPS will allow the controller to turn on all the time. I have been able in the last two days to get it to move slightly forward but when I got the service manual the resistance of both my TPS's were not even close to what the manual says it should be. I will check each pin on the controller tomorrow. I know the motor runs fine as I have tested it when applying ground to the relay. Will post tomorrow when the TPS arrives. Thanks for your input.
 

dhead

New Member
I am still waiting on a new TPS. The one that I ordered for it would connect to the wiring harness so I had to order one from the dealer. Should be in by tomorrow hopefully. Update as soon as it arrives and installed.
 

dhead

New Member
On a side note I have replaced the speed sensor but I couldn't get it to read like the manual said.. Will it read without the TPS or does it have to be connected?
 

Aqle82

New Member
troubleshooting a similar issue. new to the golf cart diy repair process. could you share which replacement speed sensor you purchased and where?
 

dhead

New Member
I ordered mine from Amazon. Truthfully I tried to check it out as the manual suggested without getting the 0-5V by turning the wheel, but this was before replacing the TPS sensor. I had order it from Amazon but even though it listed my cart it wouldn't plug into the harness. I then ordered one from Yamaha at 6 times the cost. I tried to check it according to the manual and couldn't read the resistance the manual called for. Installed it and car is now working as it should. My first mistake in working on this cart was not purchasing an online manual which at least allowed me to take voltage measurements. If you are having the same issues I would doubt it would be the speed sensor. From what I read it will give you erratic running but it would at least be running. Tell me what yours is doing and I'll try to help.
 
I have had some of the same experiences that you have endured. This weekend I put a new controller and TPS in a 2007 g29
the first controller was DOA and the brand new controller never worked either. I also drive a 2007 g29 so i put the new controller in my cart NOTHING. The dealer was very good and exchanged the controller no charge as i am a licensed mechanic and have delt with them for over a decade. I also put in a new tps and the reading didn’t match the specs in the book but at least i got readings with the new TPS. When the second new controller did nothing I got really mad and dug in Deeper. Jacked up the cart and then had someone turn it on and step on the throttle, nothing. So then I started moving the main wiring harness around it would trigger the motor sometimes. I have not found a way to service the tiny terminals or get the plug apart yet. So what my electronics friend and I came up with was to put ting straight pins into the TPS wires (orange& black)on the back side of the main plug. Effectively we put tension back into the terminal connection and the cart runs perfectly. I hope this gives you another place to look
 

dhead

New Member
I finally got the cart running and in my NC home. Now I'm going to start replacing a lot of the items I bought to see if they will work or not. I don't think it needed everything I bought but will find out soon.
 

Aqle82

New Member
thanks in advance, much appreciated.

the background:
I have 2011 g29 and recently it would stop working while out in the neighborhood.

the 1st time it stopped running, we drove about a third of a mile. i got to a stop sign, and it wouldn't run anymore. after multiple troubleshooting steps (toggle tow/run, toggle on/off, toggle fwd/run, depressing the gas pedal, etc), i let it rest for 5 mins then started over again (tow to run, key off to on), it started back up and was able to make it home.

the 2nd time i took it out, i was able to go a tenth of a mile before it stopped running again. this time, it didnt start up again so put it in tow mode and pushed it home to the end of the driveway. I let it sit out there for 30 mins before I went out and started it up again, and was able to get it to run and drive up the driveway.

before the 3rd time going for a test drive, i did some searching on this forum and took the pedal cover off to visually scan if the pedal switch was getting stuck, but did not see any debris blocking it. i was able to get drive past 5-6 houses and it stopped running.

the solenoid clicks from tow to run, it clicks again from key switch off to on, and clicks again when depressing the gas pedal when it isn't running.

the goal:
I am looking to pre-purchase 2-3 of the parts to plan a weekend to take the cover off and hopefully get it running again which is why I was asking ideal place to buy good parts for it. I know i will need to do proper testing with the voltmeter but would like to have the parts ready to swap out in advance. I'm thinking possibly the solenoid, motor speed sensor, or TPS is the culprit? I also plan to trace the wires and connections too while I have the covers off.

Thanks all for the help!
 

dhead

New Member
Not sure if you have the service manual or not but if I started over I would buy online the service manual. Mine was $30 and well worth it. I would start with the brake switch. If you can find small enough connectors remove the connection and jumper it. This will eliminate that switch. Next with the manual I would take voltage reading at the controller connector using the wiring diagram of the connector which has voltages you can expect. I personally doubt the motor speed sensor as the manual says it will run erratic but I believe it will run. As far as the solenoid you can check it with a voltmeter and also ground one side of the coil to verify if it is making connection but the controller is what actually grounds the solenoid to make it operated. If I don’t get back with you I may be busy but will check the forum often. Not a lot of fun when you aren’t getting any response.
 

Zman

Cartaholic
Rarely does the speed sensor fail, I would suspect the f&r switch ( they go open circuit ) bad ignition switch( they go open circuit) bad connections. I have never had to change out a TPS . Other possibilities , I just tore down a motor and inspected the brushes and 2 out of the 4 were worn badly causing this cart to surge and quit. Also I would use only OEM parts if you can.
 

Aqle82

New Member
thank you dhead and Zman on the guidance. makes sense given it seems my distance with each test run is getting shorter before it does out.

FWIW - i forgot to mention that I also tested the batteries for a full charge across the pack (4x12V) and each battery. I also am getting resistance when pushing the cart in run mode.
 

dhead

New Member
As for the TPS sensor I have only worked on one golf cart and had two TPS sensors but had no clue what the readings were suppose to be. Each read from 2-3 ohms to 40 ohms. When I got one from Yamaha it said from 0-15K ohms but could get it to read that. Could have been bad connections but when I installed it the cart took off. Also it is possible that they may have read those readings when installed as the controller may have made the difference.
 

Aqle82

New Member
Quick update - now the golf cart does not move in either direction. the T&R switch, ignition switch, and pedal is still engaging the solenoid and clicks. Also confirmed continuity on the small terminals on the solenoid, and on the big terminals after it engages and clicks. also was able to get a service manual to help guide diagnosing the cart further. I should add that prior to the cart dying mid-run, I noticed the golf cart lurching forward when depressing the pedal for a few weeks prior.

I was getting erratic readings of the TPS from the receptacle, so I took off the TPS from the pedal assembly and am getting ~32 kOhms on the black and blue pins, and ~24 kOhms on the black and orange pins regardless where the sensor was turned. Service manual says it should be 5 kOhm from blue to black, and ranges from 0-5kOhm from orange to black when the sensor moves. I am thinking i should replace the TPS.

Not a lot of options out there to purchase OEM TPS replacement part online (JW2-H5885). Is there a recommended online vendor? Or should I call around locally (based in Houston, TX) to Yamaha dealers that has OEM parts?

Thanks!
 

Aqle82

New Member
Replacement TPS came in - ordered OEM. What's odd is the TPS out of the bag had the same kOhms reading as my old TPS - not getting anything near the 5 kOhms from blue to black, nor it varying from orange to black. I plugged it in to the pedal assembly and got the same readings.

I also confirmed if there was a bad connection, or possible loose connection on the receptacle but was getting continuity from the receptacle that plugs into the controller, and the receptable that plugs into the TPS.

I'm going to contact the vendor tomorrow to see what they say and would send a new receptable as not getting the 5 kOhm reading as expected.
 

Aqle82

New Member
Yes, the solenoid is clicking with the stop switch (and depressing the pedal). It's the Moric controller, and to my knowledge is the original and had the PTV speed code applied.
 

Zman

Cartaholic
And you have checked the f&r switch to make sure those inputs are getting to the controller. You have 48 plus volts to B+ on the controller with pedal depressed. I know you said the controller was replaced but if all the inputs work the controller has to be bad.
 
Top