2011 EZGO TXTE Shorted Key Switch to Turn Siginal Switch

[Bud Smoker]

Thanks for looking. I have looked at many post and youtube videos trying to figure this out my self. I am at a loss. Local shop said its the controller with out even seeing cart. would like a second opinion... or as many opinions as I can get.
2011 EZGO TXTE 48 volt cart ran fine when I put new plastic on. Did not run after. While checking wires under cowl I believe my yellow ignition key switch wire may have made contact and shorted with the turn signal switch wires frying the 12 volt reducer, blew both input/output fuses. Blows input fuse immediately, even when reducer unhooked from cart. so that is obviously bad. Read up on bypassing the reducer by running pack positive thru yellow ignition wire to turn solenoid on. Dont know if it right just read it on a forum. no change. I put a 12v battery in the reducer output wires, lights work but that's it. I know its all about details so here the are..
*no solenoid click, but tested by unhooking wires passed ohm test, went pos/neg across little post and got click.
*reverse buzzer works. buzzes when I rock the cart back and forth
*did rev to neutral 5 times, the test the shop told me to do, heard a click from controller first time but nothing since. I've tried a few times. no beep codes

2011 TXTE-48v date code:k1211
Curtis controller 1206HB-5201 s/w 12 48v 250a Date code 11047p
Motor part# 612624, DL9-4006, AU2500 FLT Speed 12/10/10
*Battery pack voltage: 49.1v
*Battery post side on solenoid: 49.1v
*Controller post side on solenoid: 48.6v
*Direction control switch, Rocker in dash, 49.1v and switching
*ITS micro switch supply side (Red wire) 49.1v
*ITS micro switch switched side (Green wire) 49.1v when activated
*ITS sensor passenger side post (White wire) 14.3v
*ITS sensor driver side post (Black wire) 2.8v pressed wide open
*Blue wire from charging port 47.9v

Now I have heard about different pin outs checking various numbers in plug but i cant find a pin out for my exact cart. Like I hear about the m- or something I cant find more info on location. Lots of variations out there and I really dont want to mess it up any further by using a bad diagram. I am ordering a 48/12v reducer, mine is a 5 wire, I see that there are different numbers of wires on some. Mine is Pack+,Pack-,a yellow control, output 12v+, output 12v-

Any advice/direction would be greatly appreciated,Thanks for looking.

 

[HotRodCarts]

Any type of direct short especially on a regen golf cart 9 out of 10 times will fry the controller. From what you've described the dealer is probably right and the controller is bad. Welcome to Cartaholics Golf Cart Forum.

 

[Bud Smoker]

Thanks For the reply. I was afraid of that. The guy at the shop seemed like he was being straight up with me, not trying to sell me nothing. Ok, next quick question I have seen used ones, and refurbished where you have to send the old one in. I have seen them big upgrade ones but I'm not trying to go crazy. what do you recommend? I have looked a a couple on Ebay...They all seem to come out of Florida.

 

[HotRodCarts]

@Diode can get rebuilt controllers. I tagged him so wait until he replies.

 

[Diode]

I have prices and troubleshooting for controllers on my website go there first troubleshoot it make sure and then we'll talk about rebuilding it

 

[Bud Smoker]

Ok thanks a million hotrod and diode. I have gotten the pdf off the website and I will carefully go thru the check list and post my results.

 

[Bud Smoker]

Ok I carefully did the test. Now my trusty fluke meter died on me so I preformed the test with a cheap harbor freight one. On the 200 scale with leads touching each other I have 1 ohm resistance. So my oms are as read. I will try to get a better meter. Let me go thru the issues then my test results as written on the pdf.
The motor.
A1 to A2. 1.5 on 200 scale minus 1 ohm would be .2 ohms over threshold
F1 to case is open
Solenoid, measure the coil. Now I may not have done this right I went to both big post, it was open.
I do have what looks like a diode on a wire 5% it says. no direction marked was in sleeve I cut it open to look for band, none present.

Pin 5: had only 36.3v. Checked at charge port only got 49.0. something with connector inside port. After cleaning ect. I just bypassed to pack V. ( disables cart from not moving while charging correct?)

pin 10 now originally this was hooked up thru the 12 volt system. I hooked a direct wire from pack +

Pin 7 Neutral Switch only at 49.3. when I switch to reverse it dropped to 1.2v but in forward its the same as N 49.3. Pack voltage 50.8 on grey wire going to buzzer and on red wire going to switch
So what do you think? That switch and buzzer seems to be out of wack and no resistance F1 to case.

Motor
A1-A2 Fail 1.5
F1-F2 pass 2.6
A1-F1 pass open
F1-Case fail open
Solenoid
big post ohms fail open
+/- to little post big ohms pass 1.2
Controller plug
#1: pack V /pass 50.8
#2 pin 5 pass 50.8
#3 pin 9 pass 50.8
#4 pin 10 pass 0
#5 pin 10 pass 50.8
#6 pin 10 pass 50.8
#7 pin 8 pass 0
#8 pin 8 pass 50.8
#9 pin 16 pass 0
#10 pin 16 pass 50.8
#11 pin 7 Fail
#12 pin 6 pass 0
#13 pin 6 pass 50.8
#14 pin 1 pass 15.0
#15 pin 2 pass 1.3
#16 pin 2 pass 2.9
#17 pin 13 pass 0
#18 pin 15 pass 14.8
#19 pin 14 pass 5.0

 

[Bud Smoker]

I reread and don't think I was clear. the Ignition is in use I hooked pack positive supply side post.

 

[Bud Smoker]

Diode, I have looked on you site for a reducer...

Converter 42-56v 12v 10A Waterproof

Current Logic 48V

Current Logic

www.current-logic.com/shop/

$26.50​

Is this one like I had? It had a 10 amp input fuse and a 20 amp output fuse. All i am running 12v is led light bar style headlight and brake lights.
how many wires does this one have?

 

[Bud Smoker]

bump. got new switch still nothing