2010 Zone EV Open Field Help

ChanceT

New Member
Hello,
I am a new member but have been using this forums archives for a few years now. I finally ran across an issue that I’m having that I can’t seem to locate the solution to so I decided to create a profile and ask the educated members for some advice.

I am working on a 2010 Zone EV 48 (my first mistake) that is putting me through the ringer. I was told it needed new batteries but it ended up being bad brushes. I replaced the brushes and put new batteries in it. On the first push of the pedal, she kicked on. When it came time to test drive a few minutes later, it would not move. When then key is in the ignition and it’s in forward, the solenoid kicks on and then clicks again around 3 seconds later with no movement. The 1268-5403 Curtis blinks the 3-4 code. I have tested and jumped the solenoid and it seems to be fine. The 10 amp fuse below the solenoid is good as well. I can not find any lose wires in the field. I did break the speed sensor magnet when I was replacing the brushes and the speed sensor itself had a broken tab with the 3 copper wires in it. I replaced the speed sensor with a Club Car DS IQ (spliced pig tails but the sensor itself fit perfectly). I replaced the magnet with a Club Car tempo speed sensor magnet as it was the same dimensions and the only difference was groove on both sides of magnet instead of solid magnet like OEM part. The reason for replacing with different parts is the lack of supply for OEM on these carts. I unplugged the speed sensor and get the same results as I do when it’s plugged in. The reverse alarm does sound when spinning tires in reverse. I’m stuck because it worked when I first pressed the accelerator and not again even though I did nothing different. I’d guess I blew a fuse somehow but the only one I can find is the 10 amp below the solenoid. I’m hoping someone can suggest a different test or something I’m not thinking about as I haven’t came across a cart that I haven’t been able to fix yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Regardless, I’d like to thank the members of this forum for all of the knowledge shared that have helped me in the past.
 

ChanceT

New Member
I took the motor down yesterday to inspect that the brushes move freely and confirmed that they indeed do but I’ll pull it again and thoroughly inspect the wiring inside the motor. I’ll also try to jump the motor to confirm it’s working. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

ChanceT

New Member
I pulled the motor back out and completely inspected everything to confirm that all wires are intact. I jumped the motor and it does work. I’m still getting the 3-4 code. The next thing I can think would be that my make do speed sensor isn’t functioning. Is there any way to test/bypass the speed sensor? I have attached images of the OEM parts along with the ones I used instead. The first 2 are the ones I used instead and the second 2 are the OEM. I cut and spliced the speed sensor pigtail to fit OEM and the carts pigtail. If I was able to get the OEM in a timely/costly manner, I wouldn’t hesitate but it seems my best bet would be to buy a newly rebuilt motor for this cart locally for close to the same price as the speed sensor and magnet alone. Any thoughts would be appreciated as always. Thank you for reading.E4D279AB-F69A-46F7-B0A0-2FC6AE73F7B8.jpegE087FF55-2E19-4968-A588-C7426A4A4290.jpegC6FCD2A2-22C3-41B8-8A19-F808A72665D2.jpeg823CA65F-4E1D-485B-BA54-380084ECC330.jpeg
 

Golf Cart Wizard

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
The speed sensor doesn’t have anything to do with a field code, if it isn’t plugged in the golf cart will still run just in limp mode. Ohm out the field wires make sure they aren’t broken somewhere inside the insulation or in a crimp, that can happen on any golf cart but especially on China carts as they typically use poor quality wiring and terminals.
 

ChanceT

New Member
Ok thank you. So specifically test F1& F2 to the motor? What’s really bugging me is that it worked the first time I pressed accelerator with new brushes and new batteries but not since. I will test F1 & F2 now though. Thank you
 

ChanceT

New Member
I just replaced all 4 cable lugs to the motor and still nothing.

I first arrived at the brushes due to wheels not turning with the pedal until I would spin them, then they catch and let off again.

I don’t think that I connected A1 to A2 post and A2 to A1 post when I first reconnected after new brushes and batteries but if I were to have done that, is it possible it would have worked for 1st pedal press then fried controller? If so, would it be throwing 3-4?

Thank you guys.
 

ChanceT

New Member
I appreciate it. I’m having a hard time tracking down a speed sensor for this cart but I was able to find a newly rebuilt motor locally with speed sensor included for a fair price. I am working on a 2010 Zone EV and the motor im looking at is out of a 2014 Star Car. I’ll attach a photo of both. Does anyone happen to know if a straight swap would work? 60ED18B3-B6B4-4BED-A7D0-DD4734A31BB6.jpeg74BB9511-317F-4B8B-9E4C-3BDF640AB47D.jpeg
 

Zman

Cartaholic
Did you ohm the F1 wire from controller to field terminal on motor? likewise on F2? Also chinese motors field wires like to break internal at the stud from vibrations . The field coils don't stay tight and move around causing the wires to break at the studs. So ohm check from F1 to F2 on motor. Listen to Golf Cart wizard, he knows what he talking about.
 

ChanceT

New Member
I have an update but still haven’t determined a solution. I installed the new motor and am now getting the wheels to turn but only in reverse regardless of the forward reverse switch direction and it’s intermittently. The wheels will spin for 1-4 seconds then cut out. Hit the pedal again and it goes right back into gear but only reverse and for 1-4 seconds. I did end up changing all of the terminal lugs and soldering on new ones. I really appreciate you guys and I do take your word seriously and find it helpful. Thank you
 

ChanceT

New Member
SOLVED: I put in a new controller and now it works great. Only ever threw a 3-4 code signaling Open Field but it was the controller the whole time. Thank you all for taking the time to read this and all of the help along the way.
 
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