I've checked/replaced the solenoid and sent the controller to get repaired and was told its in perfect condition. I'm getting pack voltage (~53V) to one big node on solenoid and 0 to both small posts with key off. With key on, getting pack voltage to both small nodes (~52V on one and ~51V on other). No reverse buzzer. One small node has blue and black wires. Other node has 2 yellow wires. When I remove one yellow wire, getting exactly 20.1V to both small nodes. Any ideas/ help would be appreciated
2007 EZGO TXT SHUTTLE 4/6 No Reverse Buzzer
- Thread starter edluvva
- Start date
is it just the buzzer that is not working ?
you need a wiring diagram and a volt meter
the controller Requires that every input be in the correct state before it will furnish a neg connection to the solenoid coil (small terminals)
raise the rear tires completely off the ground
key on, throttle up, neutral selected
check all inputs to the controller for the correct voltage
key on, throttle down, fwd selected
check all inputs to the controller for the correct voltage
let us know what you find
Thank you Jeff. I found that I have full pack (53.2V) to pin 11 and it fluctuated, but approximately 49V to Pin 18. All other pins had nothing or they would show something minimal (0.1-0.2V) when I first contacted and go to 0 almost immediately.
Please let me know what to do next.
Thanks,
Ed
Please let me know what to do next.
Thanks,
Ed
what controller and what diagram are you using ?
NOT correct
it must be plugged in
you may need a paperclip jumper if you cant get your VOM leads in the backside
i am still looking for a wiring diagram for a CURTIS 1268-5418 i havent found one yet
if you have the actual diagram please post it
we need to know where the wires go in order to determine what the status should be
post a pic of the controller please
i am getting search results for a navitas 1268
here is a link to the manual : https://cdn.curtisinstruments.com/products/manuals/1268_manual_en.pdf and I attached a few screenshots.
let me see if I can get the paperclip in there. was concerned about damaging the wires, but I'll give it a try shortly. Thank you for your help
let me see if I can get the paperclip in there. was concerned about damaging the wires, but I'll give it a try shortly. Thank you for your help
Attachments
i have a better idea !!!
look at the manual page 47 in section 6
there is a list of fault codes
read the instructions
let us know if you still need help
Hi Jeff,
I'm not getting any fault codes. The status light on the controller does not illuminate. I got all of the voltages and based on the wiring ports, I believe the Navitas diagram you found is the correct one (although I have no idea what pins 20, 23 and 24 go to, although they are used in the Curtis Manual). Here is what I got:
Pin-Forward Voltage-Neutral Voltage (with accelerator pressed)
1-52.4-0
2-53.2-53.2
3-4.0-3.9
4-4.0-3.9
5-52.4-0
6-52.4-0
7-53.2-53.2
8-52.4-0
9-4.0-3.9
10-53.2-0
11-0-0 (put it in reverse and got full pack voltage)
12-52.4-0
13-3.3-3.2
14-No wire
15-0.2-0.2
16-No wire
17-0.3-0
18-No Wire
19-50.2-50.2 (I suspect this would be closer to the 49 I measured earlier, but I went inside to find a diagram to see if the empty pins made sense, which is when I decided that the Navitas was probably accurate, and when I came back, my pack voltage was over 55 volts, instead of 53)
20-0-0
21-No Wire
22- No Wire
23-4.2-4.1
24-0.1-0
Anything stand out?
Thanks,
Ed
I'm not getting any fault codes. The status light on the controller does not illuminate. I got all of the voltages and based on the wiring ports, I believe the Navitas diagram you found is the correct one (although I have no idea what pins 20, 23 and 24 go to, although they are used in the Curtis Manual). Here is what I got:
Pin-Forward Voltage-Neutral Voltage (with accelerator pressed)
1-52.4-0
2-53.2-53.2
3-4.0-3.9
4-4.0-3.9
5-52.4-0
6-52.4-0
7-53.2-53.2
8-52.4-0
9-4.0-3.9
10-53.2-0
11-0-0 (put it in reverse and got full pack voltage)
12-52.4-0
13-3.3-3.2
14-No wire
15-0.2-0.2
16-No wire
17-0.3-0
18-No Wire
19-50.2-50.2 (I suspect this would be closer to the 49 I measured earlier, but I went inside to find a diagram to see if the empty pins made sense, which is when I decided that the Navitas was probably accurate, and when I came back, my pack voltage was over 55 volts, instead of 53)
20-0-0
21-No Wire
22- No Wire
23-4.2-4.1
24-0.1-0
Anything stand out?
Thanks,
Ed
Golf Cart Wizard
Cartaholic - V.I.P.
The aux power is the input from the tow switchThink I found it! Any help interpreting would be much appreciatedwhat is the aux power?
double check pins 3 and 4
they should be B+
if you are certain you are not getting B+ on 3 and 4
look at the wiring diagram you posted and begin tracing through the various connectors and the T/R switch, from the controller to the B+ connection
you are losing voltage in one of those connections
this is preventing the controller from turning on
it thinks the T/R switch is in tow
look for loose or corroded connections, sometimes even the slightest difference in color is a clue
get a can of plastic safe electrical spray cleaner, use it liberally on all of the connections including the entire J1 plug into the controller
unplug and replug multiple times, this will help clean the connections
if there are no other problems fixing that will allow the controller to turn on and operate the cart
if there are other problems you will have to re-check all pin voltages again against the diagnostic you posted
IF your wire colors on the cart match the drawings wire colors (at least for the most part, sometimes one or several will be different), then you have the correct manual
the pics you posted from the repair manual as well as the complete manual itself are what you need to be working from and nothing else
anything else will muddy the water
Golf Cart Wizard
Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Did you even look at the wire diagram? The tow switch is a double pole switch with two individual circuits running through it. Just because one side is working doesn’t mean it’s good. Also that doesn’t automatically mean the tow switch is bad, you need to stop thinking about what part you can change to magically fix your golf cart and start thinking about testing the circuit with a multimeter to see where the power is being lost. Pins 15 and 17 aren’t going to function if you don’t have power from the tow switch like @Jeff104 has already tried to explain to you