2007 Club Car Precedent 48v Electric Will Not Run

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Strenz

New Member
Two years ago replaced my batteries with one 48v lithium battery. The battery is 100 percent charged, Key switch passes 48 volts but the solenoid does not pick up (ie click) Reverse alarm works when I jumpered negative from the battery to the terminal that didn't have +53v on it but, it does not alarm with the cart forward/reverse switch in reverse. I removed the solenoid after I verified which spade terminal was positive. I then put meter on the large terminals and verified continuity when I picked up the solenoid jumpering + and - to the
correct terminals from the battery. Lifted all leads off the motor put meter in diode mode on A1& A2 beeps, then F1 & F2 beeps. No beeps from any A to any F terminal or any terminal to the motor case. I then jacked up the rear end and jumped 48v + & - to the proper A1 & A2 terminals with jumper cables. The motor ran and the wheels turned un the forward direction. I did the OBC reset process and the reverse alarm never came on. I did see a quick flicker of the battery warning light upon restoration but, the solenoid never picked up/clicked so I jumpered -48v to the proper terminal and the solenoid picked up. The resistor on the solenoid reads 240 ohms. I'm not sure about the forward/reverse switch because I the screws are rusted so I would have to drill them out. To me that leaves me with the OBC, speed controller or the foot pedal potentiometer. I tried to jumper -48v to the terminal on the controller where the -48v that comes from the OBC lands. This was supposed to bypass the OBC but nothing happened. What am I missing.?
 
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Strenz

New Member
Serial is PQ0732793564. I also verified the 15 amp fuse was good. Never could find a motor reset button but motor runs in forward when jumpered.
 
S

Strenz

New Member
The motor switching to reverse, the reverse alarm, the solenoid -48 volts so the solenoid picks up (clicks), the main power to the motor and the speed control for the motor all come through the controller.
 
HotRodCarts

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
Glad you found the problem and thanks for the follow up. You only posted your question last night and I'm sure someone would have helped you out soon. Now you might want to figure out what caused the controller to go bad before replacing it. :twocents:
 
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Pat911

Cartaholic
Glad you found your problem and thanks for following up with the solution. It will help others.

It’s very difficult to diagnose complex issues like a faulty controller via remote control. You posted a lot of information in your first post which was very helpful, but would also take someone reading it a long time to comprehend, process and offer solutions. I bet no one reading your original post looked at it and said “faulty controller“. As @HotRodCarts said, you only posted yesterday and providing help on this (and other) forums isn’t our full time jobs, well it isn’t for me anyhow. I saw your post when you posted it but didn’t even open it to read it as I was quite busy, I did get to it today but you’ve already found your problem, which is good.

There’s no need to be rude to people that don’t owe you anything. We come here in our own time and offer help and guidance when we can, more often than not resulting in a successful fix.
 
Diode

Diode

Cartaholic - V.I.P. Sponsor
If? You go to my website and go to rebuilt controllers. There's 2 places that will rebuild for you on the left. Will do it for about a $100.
 
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