2006 Club Car Precedent Not Moving

[Ninjasaurusrex]

Hi all,

My cart was working 2 weeks ago and now it is not working. I accidentally shorted a wire to my aftermarket voltage reader and the wire burnt. Not sure if the cart was working immediately before that or not.

I think i tested everything correctly. 0.3 ohm across the solenoid when engaged. Tested the 16 pin going into the controller. Everything seems to be ok except the voltage coming out of the controller to the motor. What are the expexted readings with b+/- m-... And which terminals should i be testing.

I got this during my testing. b+ to battery neg is pack volt. M- to batt neg is pack volt, but b+ to m- is 0. When pressing the throttle it goes to ~17 and then back to 0

Thank you

 

[Golf Cart Wizard]

Is the solenoid clicking when you push the pedal?

 

[Ninjasaurusrex]

Is the solenoid clicking when you push the pedal?

Yes it is. Also after the solenoid clicks, there's voltage on the s1/s2 out on the controller. Jumps to 48v but then to 0 pretty quickly

 

[Golf Cart Wizard]

Sounds like controller is trying to go but motor won't. Disconnect the batteries and the motor cables and check continuity between A1 to A2 and F1 to F2.

 

[Ninjasaurusrex]

Sounds like controller is trying to go but motor won't. Disconnect the batteries and the motor cables and check continuity between A1 to A2 and F1 to F2

I checked the continuity. A1 to A2 has continuity a1-f1 open, a2-f1 open, a1/f1- case open

Motor goes. Jumped a1/f1 and a2/f2 and hooked up a 12v. And wheels spin. Totally lost. Everything seems right but it won't go.

The wires that shorted were to an aftermarket battery meter not connected to any of the carts wiring. Just attached to the +/- of the battery

 

[Golf Cart Wizard]

Test voltage between controller B+ and B- when you hit the pedal. If it drops then current isn't getting to the controller (probably from bad solenoid) and the initial voltage is just from the pre charge capacitors not the batteries. Try hitting the pedal and test between B- and each large solenoid post, should be the same if solenoid is good. Continuity test won't always show a bad contactor because the multimeter doesn't load the circuit.

 

[Ninjasaurusrex]

Test voltage between controller B+ and B- when you hit the pedal. If it drops then current isn't getting to the controller (probably from bad solenoid) and the initial voltage is just from the pre charge capacitors not the batteries. Try hitting the pedal and test between B- and each large solenoid post, should be the same if solenoid is good. Continuity test won't always show a bad contactor because the multimeter doesn't load the circuit.

Thanks. I'll try when i get home in a little.

 

[Ninjasaurusrex]

Test voltage between controller B+ and B- when you hit the pedal. If it drops then current isn't getting to the controller (probably from bad solenoid) and the initial voltage is just from the pre charge capacitors not the batteries. Try hitting the pedal and test between B- and each large solenoid post, should be the same if solenoid is good. Continuity test won't always show a bad contactor because the multimeter doesn't load the circuit.

B- to either large terminals is pack voltage. When stepping it drops ~2 volts and then back up. Same when i tested between b+ and b-.

After the click there is a low hum for a second, if i let the throttle go, but not enough to disengage the solenoid and press down again it hums again and the voltage drop 2volts and then back up when the hum stops

 

[Golf Cart Wizard]

It is dropping 2 volts on both solenoid posts? How do the battery cables and connections look, and are they clean and tight?

 

[Ninjasaurusrex]

It is dropping 2 volts on both solenoid posts? How do the battery cables and connections look, and are they clean and tight?

Yes voltage drop between b- and each large post.

Not any looser or dirtier than when the cart was running. Could the batteries just need charging? Could the short have drained them? I charged them over night, but maybe it needs to go longer?

 

[Golf Cart Wizard]

If they are loose or dirty at all start there. It could have loosened up more or corroded on the bottom where you can't see it. If you have a solid current path then test the MCOR:

 

[Ninjasaurusrex]

If they are loose or dirty at all start there. It could have loosened up more or corroded on the bottom where you can't see it. If you have a solid current path then test the MCOR:
View attachment 12973

Cleaned all the terminals. Tested the mcor. Values are as expected

 

[Ninjasaurusrex]

I appreciate all your help. I'm just about ready to throw in the towel and pay someone to diagnose it lol

 

[Golf Cart Wizard]

If all the inputs to the controller are good and the motor operates when given power then the problem is going to be in the controller.