StreetGlide
New Member
Finally found correct cart wiring diagram for my 2002 Club Car IQ. Didn't find one for 16-12 volt DC reducer, lights, brake lights and horn set-up. The cart had been re-wired (I assume), since several wires were spliced with different colors (some actually changed inside the plastic "conduits"). I did a lot of tracing and continuity tests to identify what was truly what.
The accessories positive leads were joined at a fuse block (individually fused) which was connected to the + VDC battery terminal of battery # 5 (+ 16VDC point). The each accessory ground (negative) leads came back to a ground multi connection strip mounted on the rear of the kick plate near the RUN/TOW switch. The common wire then was connected to one end of the 16 to 12VDC reducer (encapsulated resistor). The other wire of the reducer was connected to ground on a multi connection strip located just behind the computer. The connection strip "appeared" to simply be fed by the negative lead coming from the 48VDC battery string.
I removed the 16-12 Volt reducer and re-wired the accessories positive and negative leads to the location (up front) of the new power distribution panel (switched and fused). I installed the new 48VDC converter just in front of the battery string and wired the 12VDC output to the power distribution panel location with twisted pair. I have not connected the wires to the +48VDC string or the distribution panel yet.
A "part time resident" neighbor is here this weekend and since all wiring has been run and no more work left needing the cart to be on jacks, I put on the new 10" two-tone Evaders and Kendra 205/50/10s (wow, they look good - another story and pics later), lowered the cart and had him re-install the batteries for me.
Instead of finishing the wiring connections to from the converter, I decided to go ahead and wire the batteries (wired correctly with proper voltages measured/confirmed). I switched the Run-Tow switch to the "run" position. No smoke, no clicks, no light, no anything. I inserted the key and switched to "on" and no smoke, no clicks, no light, no anything. I switched the F/N/R switch to "all" positions and no smoke, no clicks, no light, no anything! I calmly said "XXXX, XXXX, XXXX, XXXX!" I then turned the F/N/R switch to "N", turned key to "off", turned the Run-Tow to "Tow", removed the +48 lead from the battery, said the "XXXX" words again then had a couple of scotch on the rocks, showered and took the wife out for dinner.
I hate to have to wait for help removing the batteries, lifting the cart and start trouble shooting, but.........
Can anyone suggest where to start trouble shooting, or tell if I missed doing something (above)? What voltages I should see at/around the key switch and when? Is/was the output of the original reducer used for something other than accessories (don't find anything on cart wiring diagram which would indicate so)?
Yes, I need help again. I would appreciate any/all greatly!
The accessories positive leads were joined at a fuse block (individually fused) which was connected to the + VDC battery terminal of battery # 5 (+ 16VDC point). The each accessory ground (negative) leads came back to a ground multi connection strip mounted on the rear of the kick plate near the RUN/TOW switch. The common wire then was connected to one end of the 16 to 12VDC reducer (encapsulated resistor). The other wire of the reducer was connected to ground on a multi connection strip located just behind the computer. The connection strip "appeared" to simply be fed by the negative lead coming from the 48VDC battery string.
I removed the 16-12 Volt reducer and re-wired the accessories positive and negative leads to the location (up front) of the new power distribution panel (switched and fused). I installed the new 48VDC converter just in front of the battery string and wired the 12VDC output to the power distribution panel location with twisted pair. I have not connected the wires to the +48VDC string or the distribution panel yet.
A "part time resident" neighbor is here this weekend and since all wiring has been run and no more work left needing the cart to be on jacks, I put on the new 10" two-tone Evaders and Kendra 205/50/10s (wow, they look good - another story and pics later), lowered the cart and had him re-install the batteries for me.
Instead of finishing the wiring connections to from the converter, I decided to go ahead and wire the batteries (wired correctly with proper voltages measured/confirmed). I switched the Run-Tow switch to the "run" position. No smoke, no clicks, no light, no anything. I inserted the key and switched to "on" and no smoke, no clicks, no light, no anything. I switched the F/N/R switch to "all" positions and no smoke, no clicks, no light, no anything! I calmly said "XXXX, XXXX, XXXX, XXXX!" I then turned the F/N/R switch to "N", turned key to "off", turned the Run-Tow to "Tow", removed the +48 lead from the battery, said the "XXXX" words again then had a couple of scotch on the rocks, showered and took the wife out for dinner.
I hate to have to wait for help removing the batteries, lifting the cart and start trouble shooting, but.........
Can anyone suggest where to start trouble shooting, or tell if I missed doing something (above)? What voltages I should see at/around the key switch and when? Is/was the output of the original reducer used for something other than accessories (don't find anything on cart wiring diagram which would indicate so)?
Yes, I need help again. I would appreciate any/all greatly!