2002 Club Car IQ Problem Wiring 16 Volt to 12 Volt Reducer


New Member
Finally found correct cart wiring diagram for my 2002 Club Car IQ. Didn't find one for 16-12 volt DC reducer, lights, brake lights and horn set-up. The cart had been re-wired (I assume), since several wires were spliced with different colors (some actually changed inside the plastic "conduits"). I did a lot of tracing and continuity tests to identify what was truly what.

The accessories positive leads were joined at a fuse block (individually fused) which was connected to the + VDC battery terminal of battery # 5 (+ 16VDC point). The each accessory ground (negative) leads came back to a ground multi connection strip mounted on the rear of the kick plate near the RUN/TOW switch. The common wire then was connected to one end of the 16 to 12VDC reducer (encapsulated resistor). The other wire of the reducer was connected to ground on a multi connection strip located just behind the computer. The connection strip "appeared" to simply be fed by the negative lead coming from the 48VDC battery string.

I removed the 16-12 Volt reducer and re-wired the accessories positive and negative leads to the location (up front) of the new power distribution panel (switched and fused). I installed the new 48VDC converter just in front of the battery string and wired the 12VDC output to the power distribution panel location with twisted pair. I have not connected the wires to the +48VDC string or the distribution panel yet.

A "part time resident" neighbor is here this weekend and since all wiring has been run and no more work left needing the cart to be on jacks, I put on the new 10" two-tone Evaders and Kendra 205/50/10s (wow, they look good - another story and pics later), lowered the cart and had him re-install the batteries for me.

Instead of finishing the wiring connections to from the converter, I decided to go ahead and wire the batteries (wired correctly with proper voltages measured/confirmed). I switched the Run-Tow switch to the "run" position. No smoke, no clicks, no light, no anything. I inserted the key and switched to "on" and no smoke, no clicks, no light, no anything. I switched the F/N/R switch to "all" positions and no smoke, no clicks, no light, no anything! I calmly said "XXXX, XXXX, XXXX, XXXX!" I then turned the F/N/R switch to "N", turned key to "off", turned the Run-Tow to "Tow", removed the +48 lead from the battery, said the "XXXX" words again then had a couple of scotch on the rocks, showered and took the wife out for dinner.

I hate to have to wait for help removing the batteries, lifting the cart and start trouble shooting, but.........

Can anyone suggest where to start trouble shooting, or tell if I missed doing something (above)? What voltages I should see at/around the key switch and when? Is/was the output of the original reducer used for something other than accessories (don't find anything on cart wiring diagram which would indicate so)?

Yes, I need help again. I would appreciate any/all greatly!


Did the cart ever run since you've had it? Or did the problem start after the re-wiring?

Without being there it's going to be tough because of all the re-wiring. If the batteries are good and charged there must be a problem with the wiring somewhere. The only thing you can do is go over everything and triple check all your wiring.

Check the micro switch(s) and make sure they're working.

If the cart never ran since you've had it other possibilities are bad motor, controller or OBC.


New Member

Had cart 6 years. New batteries for 4 months. They are fully charged.

I was just reading (and tried it) the below procedure for resetting OBC.

If the negative battery wire is removed when the trottle pedal is locked down, how would the battery light come-on and how would buzzer sound if there was not negative return to the battery? It would have to have some path to the negative to come-on. Where would that connection be?

The instructions do not have you reconnect the negative lead until the last step. There has to be a completed circuit.

Is the voltage on the key switch 12VDC during normal operation, or 48 VDC? If 12VDC, that would tell me that either the
old 16-12 reducer provded it, or the obc did through the red and orange/white leads from the obc to the key switch? This is an IQ CC.


Any one know?

RESET Procedure:
To reset the Club Car OBC the following must be done in this order:

1 - Key Switch to Off
2 - Forward/Reverse to Neutral
3 - Tow/Run Switch to Tow
4 - Disconnect the Battery NEGATIVE (–) wire from the battery NEGATIVE (-) terminal on the battery pack.
5 - Put the Tow/Run to Run
6 - Forward/Reverse Switch to Reverse
7 - Key Switch to On
8 - Lock the throttle pedal down

The reverse buzzer will sound and go off in about 30 seconds. Leave the cart like that for 5 min to cause the OBC to reset.

To reconnect the OBC back into the system:

1 - Key Switch to Off
2 - Forward/Reverse Switch to Neutral
3 - Tow/Run switch to Tow
4 - Reconnect the Battery NEGATIVE (–) wire to the battery negative (-) terminal on the battery pack.


New Member
Found answer to one of my questions. The light and buzzer during the reset procedure is actually powered by the discharging capacitors of the obc. Once all the capacitors discharge completely (after light and buzzer stops) the the obc is reset.

Anyone know voltage readings at key switch during normal operation, both "on" and "off" states? I only removed (purposely) lights, brake lights and horn connections, along with the old voltage reducer (resistor). I am checking to see if any connectors /connections might have been loosened accidentally.

Also still trying to determine if old reducer had anything to do with with actual cart runnning.(?)

Other ideas, please...


New Member
Just thought I would share latest with you and all.....

I triple checked the wiring as you suggested topside and below. Could not find anything that appeared mis-wired. Checked continuity of everything I could and all was good.

I was almost to the point of unwiring and starting over but came to my senses. Only wiring I did was removing old voltage reducer, all its wiring, installed the 25A 48-12VDC converter/reducer, ran all new wiring to accessories (+&-), added power distribution panel up front, added stereo, amp for subwoofer and speaker wires. I didn't touch anything, that I knew of, that would affect the golf cart obc, controller, motor etc. (at least purposely)

The more I thought about it and the way nothing appeared to be working in the go/no go system, the problem had to be in the obc.

I figured I had to do something that could possibly boot the obc. The only thing I could come-up with (that didn't call for drastic means out on the street) was charging the batteries. Half way figured that charging wouldn't work if obc was actually bad, so what could I lose (except possible big bucks which I tried not to think about). I turned Tow/Run to Run, plugged in the charger to the cart, stood back and plugged-in the charger (half way ready to run). The charger immediately went full scale, dropped to 0 as if it were properly "communicating" with the obc and in a couple of seconds (that seemed a life time) kicked back up began charging properly (as it should for fully charged batteries)!

I waited for 15 minutes or so and everything was normal. I unplugged the charger from the outlet, then the cart. I reached over, turned the key, put the cart in reverse and low and behold, there was that irritating buzzer sound! Since the cart was jacked, I stepped on the accelerator and the wheels were turning in the correct direction. Switched to forward and they did what they were suppose to do. Have tried it twice during the last 2 hours and it's still working fine.

Guess all that the obc needed was a good "boot" to get it moving.

Now, I can get back to finish connecting stereo speakers......