2000 EZGO TXT Engine Loses Power Intermittently

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wingman

New Member
Hi Guys, I have been chasing an intermittent power loss problem on a 2000 EZGO TXT that loses power intermittently. Started out with you would be driving along and like a switch was activated the engine loses power then a few seconds later like a switch was activated the engine power would come back. Now it has progressed (over a few months) to being bad (sluggish and down on power) most of the time and occasionally like a switch coming back to normal.

I say like a switch because the failure is instant and the recovery is the same. It makes me think electrical.

Things I have done so far are...new gas, clean carburetor in place with spray, fuel filter, new plugs, new coil with wires, None of these things helped.

Cart repair places are closed down for at least another 2 weeks. I am in need of the next step and hope you guys can help.
Thanks
 
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wingman

New Member
I would have to say yes because now it is down on power when it starts out. At some point usually it will switch on to good then back to bad. The start and launch seem to be normal just down on power.
 
Nubs

Nubs

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
I would start by confirming it has spark or not when it stumbles, inline spark testers are only $10 at a auto parts store, would also pull the carb off and apart and give it a good cleaning and blowout the jets with compressed air.
Can try the carb cleaning first, its free:hattip::twocents:
 
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wingman

New Member
Ok will do. I have had the cart for about 10 years and did nothing but oil filter, fuel and air filters, plugs. and belt when needed. Just looked at some videos and tomorrow I will check/adjust valves, and remove and clean carb.
 
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wingman

New Member
Well no luck...Did compression and both cylinders are 170 so I did not adjust valves. Removed carb, dissembled and cleaned. Even removed jets to make sure they were open. Put it back and all is the same. It seem it is always bad now. Down on power. Tried pulling one plug wire at a time while running and it gets much worse. Also when running (bad) and I pull the choke it stumbles and dies as expected. Next?
 
Tphollomon

Tphollomon

New Member
Not yet, tried removing muffler to see if it was restricted, no help. Looks like fuel delivery problem to me. New carb shows same issue and third fuel pump no help. I will report solution when it shows !
 
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boez

Member
I have some new results on mine with similar problem. Used it pretty hard for two days as we had to cut a dead tree and haul off lots of brushy limbs to small for firewood. What I have found is that I think technique gets me around the problem Something to do with how precisely I advance the throttle on start up. Go to fast or too slow with the foot and it seems to just bog down and won't pull itself. If I just back off and it dies and get the pattern right next time it will run just fine. It's almost like the first bit of throttle motion needs to be fast, then slow down as more throttle is applied, but the exact sequence is yet to be nailed down. I get it right most of the time now. But for sure if you start out and it won't pull itself (to me really sounds like running on one cylinder) no use in trying to get it to move, just shut it down and start it up again. Made it through lots of trips back in the woods to the brush pile with full loads and two people and back to the house.
 
Tphollomon

Tphollomon

New Member
Thanks for the update. Been busy and no work on it recently. Building new house and finished getting my jd450c dozer running. I am convinced the new carb on the cart is at the root of the problem. Getting one soon to try. Will keep progress posted.
TP Hollomon
 
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wingman

New Member
OK, I do believe this one is fixed even if it was by accident.

Took it in to 2 buggy shops over the last few weeks and both failed. First shop wanted to redo all the things I just did like valves and carb and tune up at $85 an hour. When I said no it was just done and I am capable of doing it correctly they refused to look at it so I went elsewhere.

2nd shop took it in and called after one week saying it needed a throttle cable. I asked if that was the power loss problem and they said no they had not got to that yet.

Called again after 2 weeks and they said they put in a missing throttle stop screw. I asked if that was the power loss problem and they said no they had not got to that yet.

Called week 3 and they still had not looked at the power loss problem so I told them to not do anything and I would be there in an hour to get the cart. When I got there they said the mechanic and the boss took it for a ride and it ran fine. I asked if they put the new throttle cable on and they said no they were going to order it today.

I asked what I owe them for the throttle stop screw and they said nothing and I said thanks and loaded up and took the cart home.

When I got home the cart was exactly the same as when I took it in. I figured I would just have to live with it until I found the problem. Low power and down on acceleration. Especially noticeable climbing even small hills. Almost never getting better.

One day driving around I noticed a funny smell so I looked it over and noticed the battery was boiling over and VERY hot to the touch. Figured my one year old battery went bad so I took it back to Blain's and they gave me a new one.

Put in the new battery and hooked up the volt meter and WOW was charging at 20 volts. Removed voltage regulator and ordered a new one.

New regulator in and charging at 14 volts. Take it for a ride and DAMN all the power is back. Acceleration that will snap your neck and climbs hills like a dirt bike. Well that last sentence may be a slight exaggeration but it was much much better and all the power is back.

Now my only question is did the new voltage regulator fix the power problem or did changing the regulator jiggle the right wire to fix the power problem?

Either way I am happy happy happy!
 
HotRodCarts

HotRodCarts

Cartaholic
It was probably the voltage regulator that fixed the problem. The more voltage the generator is putting out the harder it is to turn and would be more load on the engine. The high voltage can also effect the ignition system. Glad your got ir sorted out and thanks for the follow up,
 
Tomd

Tomd

Cartaholic
Had one doing the same thing three weeks ago. I actually bought it because the person give up trying to make it run over 5mph. I unplugged the regulator and it would fly. It was charging 18 volts. Many people overlook this thinking the carburetor or clutch is the problem.
 
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boez

Member
Anxiously following - but mine has been doing well recently. Only visible thing I've done so far is changing to NGK plugs and learning how to operate right foot on accelerator. But still interested in this. But when mine acts up it won't even run 5 mph - won't pull itself unless on flat ground or downhill.
 
R

rv7charlie

New Member
Late to this party, but after searching for 'low power' and seeing this link, I took a look at mine. Battery looked suspiciously like it was boiling off acid, but is holding a charge even after sitting idle for weeks at a time, and voltage was stable at ~14.6V in normal operation. Symptoms similar to above; may run perfectly for a few minutes, then occasional backfiring and near zero power. Then it may suddenly start running perfectly again.

After removing the solenoid/regulator cover, the starter wouldn't even activate. Started wiggling wires and one wire from the in-line plastic fuse holder for the 7A fuse fell out of the fuse holder. Repaired the end (I was an electronics tech in a prior life, so had the soldering gear) and got starter operation but still had random low power. Discovered I could wiggle/pull on the fuse holder wires, and symptom would come/go even with the cart in neutral and running the engine. Cut out the fuse holder & replaced with a 7A ATC (blade style) fuse, and the cart seems to run just fine now.

My speculation is that high resistance in that circuit (which supplies power to the solenoid and ignition system, among other things), causing low voltage to the ignition system, can create poor spark heat at minimum, and may well be affecting ignition timing, though I can't tell exactly how the 'pulsor coil' functions from the manual's 'white box' drawings.

My problem may well be rare, but it's an easy check by temporarily bypassing the fuse holder in the circuit.
 
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boez

Member
Interesting - will file this in brain awaiting warm weather more condusive to fiddeling with it in the cold. Mine seems like it keeps getting better the more I run it. Found out that it had set for possibly a couple of years before my ownership. If I go to drive off and it faulters and won't pull itself (think it is on one cylinder) I just let off the gas and start out again and it usually does fine. Mainly seems to be created or not by the speed of my foot moving the gas pedal. There is a lot of movement before throttle starts to open in carb but don't know if that matters.
 
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