20.5" Tires on a DS

Notsoslim

Active Member
While I like the look of lifted carts I am hesitant to go to high with the center of gravity. My wife and grandkids drive the cart sometimes and I don't want them to get hurt. My wife drives like a maniac sometimes. I would like to step up to a good looking 20.5" tire and wheel combo. What is the minimum lift required to put this size tire on a 2008 DS? I see some of the aftermarket front springs come with 2 leafs instead of one and was wondering if that offers any lift at all. Maybe the 2 leaf and the 1" spacer block would do it. I am more than willing to learn from someone else's mistakes. The back seems easy enough to figure out.
 

Golf Cart Wizard

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
I’ve done 20.5” tires with just the 1” block lift. As long as you aren’t off roading it maxing out the suspension travel it shouldn’t rub. Heavy leaf springs would help too but those are give and take as you lose ride quality. From the factory the double front leaf only comes on the heavy carts like Villager 6, Carryall 2, etc. and those ride stiff even with their extra curb weight. I’d try just the block first and then if you are running out of clearance add the spring. Also make sure all your bushings are tight
 

Notsoslim

Active Member
Thanks GCW. I want to run 10" wheels with 20.5" tires for a softer ride rather than the low pro tires on 12 or 14 inch wheels. My cart already lost about 250 lbs with the ECO 105ah conversion so the stiffness of the 2 leaf front spring would probably be like riding a bicycle with square wheels down the railroad tracks. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I had emailed Allsports about this early in Jan and didn't hear back and again yesterday.
 

Golf Cart Wizard

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Also I will add from the factory Club Car accomplishes the lift by using multiple spring plates (part# 1010124) stacked up rather than a single block. If you are still too low with the block you can add in a plate or two to get a little more clearance
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Notsoslim

Active Member
Thanks again, all very good info. I have access to an aluminum fabrication shop where I could make those plates from aluminum flat stock as well. Are you familiar with this wheelbase extender from Jake's that pushes the whole assembly forward?


There is a little bit of work to it but it doesn't scare me.

I plan on replacing all springs and shocks as my suspension appears to be pretty well thrashed. I don't know why it's only 16 years old;). Wishing someone offered a 2 leaf for the rear. I may buy the stock single and cut the original down and use it as an add-a-leaf.
 

Golf Cart Wizard

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
With the stock single leafs there are different load ratings, not too familiar with DS but there are at least 4 different capacity single leafs offered on modern club cars. Stock electric tempos have #2, I upgrade to the #4 single leaf when I do lift kits as that is the stock spring on factory lifted carts. I will attach the parts diagrams for the Villager 2+2 LSV below, that is a factory 25 MPH 4 seat DS so that should theoretically be the “ultimate” suspension upgrade for a DS. Looks like it’s a 2 leaf front and 3 in the back.
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Notsoslim

Active Member
Thank you sir. I had wondered what the difference was between a villager 4 seater and DS since the have the same body.
 

Golf Cart Wizard

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Let us know how everything works out. If there’s one thing I’ve learned it’s that in the shop nothing ever seems to go the same way twice, there’s so many variables when it comes to any vehicle so it’s good to know other’s experiences.

One thing to look out for, I think you may have to flip the spring brackets and switch driver to passenger and vice versa so the brake cables will be at the correct angle. That is the reason I prefer the single leafs for the precedent vs. the aftermarket 4 leafs because the spring brackets cannot be flipped. If you do the stacked leaf springs it pushes the bracket to low which will misalign the brake cable and cause it to seize/break/fail prematurely. The brake cable should be coming straight out of the sheathing with as little angle possible.
 

Notsoslim

Active Member
The part number for the villager 2+2 rear 2 leaf always leads you to a 3 or four leaf no matter who is selling it. I opted for the 3 leaf because I am pretty sure the 4 leaf would shake your spleen out. I plan on running 20.5x8x10 so that should smooth things out a little versus the low pros on 12s.
Thanks for the heads up about spring brackets affecting the brake cables. I most likely would not have figured that out on my own. I will take out extra life insurance on my wife and let her do the test drive:naughty:
 

Notsoslim

Active Member
Just finished putting the 2 leaf setup and 1" block on the front as well as new shocks. Looks like it will easily take the 20.5" tires now. This did create 1" of toe in but I was able to get it set at about 3/32" by screwing the tie rod ends all of the way in. I also have 1/4" negative camber on each side. I may cut, stretch and weld the a arms back together unless someone has a better option. The ride is pretty firm and I may remove the smaller 2nd leaf to soften things up a little. The bolts in the 1" block kit were not long enough but that didn't bother me because I opted to use stainless bolts and wouldn't have used the zinc anyway. It is going to stay the way it is until I put the bigger tires on it. After that I can decide about removing the 2nd leat and stretching the a arms or delta A plate as they call it. The rear leafs just showed up; not sure if I am going to start that today.
 

Notsoslim

Active Member
I just realized I didn't order u-bolts for the rear 3 leaf setup. I can't image the OEM from the single leaf would be long enough and they are rusty anyhow. Looked around briefly and didn't see where anyone carries a longer than stock u-bolt. Wasn't able find u-bolts where I ordered the springs from but have set them an inquiry.
 

Notsoslim

Active Member
Thank you sir; I should have caught that. Definitely not the same part number as the single leaf diagram.
 

Notsoslim

Active Member
I have the villager 2+2 front 2 leaf set up with the one inch block installed. It is a little on the firm side but not that bad. After riding the cart a few times it seems to have settled a little. Camber is almost 1/2". The camber is more than I can bear and it drives a little funky too. It looks like a cambered out PR Honda civic a this point. I have a fix in mind and should be done with it by tomorrow afternoon and I should also have the 20.5 tall tires on it as well. I already received all of the parts for the back suspension and installed the Villager three leaf setup minus the short leaf which was not wrapped in the cuffs that connect the 2 main springs so it was easy to delete. I tried flipping the brackets but that didn't work out on my cart so I put them back as they were and the brake cables are not at to much of an angle.The E-clips on the brake cables were in rough shape and I was able to buy 2 of those at tractor supply; good price too . I would have had to notch (image) the brackets and chose not to. My steering wheel has never been centered but is closer now than ever. I may be able to adjust it out but if not I will cut and lengthen the drag link. I adjusted my brakes up and changed the transaxle fluid while I had it on the jack stands. Lube was a little dark but no shavings stuck to the magnet. Will update as it progress occurs. Looking toward some paint and body work and leaning towards a candy root beer color with orange vegas wheels from golf cart tire supply.
 

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Notsoslim

Active Member
Saturday I went to my brother's and lengthened my delta A plates. It wasn't that hard. I got the front of the cart on jackstands and removed the front wheels. I used a cut off wheel and cut the outer end of the plate off without out removing or loosening anything. I actually cut the weld where the flat part of the plate meets the cylinder the bushings fit inside of (near the king pin clevis). I wire wheeled off the paint off in the area to be welded. Then I placed a piece of steel 3/8" x3/8" x 1-1/2" into the gap that I cut essentially making the A plate about 5/16" longer when accounting for the loss the width of the cut off wheel. I held tension on it holding it in place and had my brother tack it pretty good. Urethane bushings caught on fire but I expected that and already had all new bushings on hand Then I took the plate off of the cart and he took it to his bench where could flip it, weld it, grind it and so on. I repeated the same thing on the other side. I knocked all of the bushings out of them. I cleaned them up with a wire wheel and hit them with a coat of rustoleum rust eater primer and 20 minutes later some gloss black enamel.

While the paint was drying I removed the fuel tank on his project 1 ton 4x4 chevy van with a 435 HP 454.

Then I pressed the new bushings in on the vise and put everything back together and bolted on the 20.5 tall tires and wheels. They are new take offs I picked up locally for $200 I now have about 1/8" positive camber on a 20.5 " tall tire but I have extreme toe out going on, so bad it was leaving marks on the driveway. I was about to lose sunlight so I quickly lengthened the tie rod by about 1-1/8" and now I have 1/8" toe in.

As the new springs break in it may settle at 0 camber which is what I was shooting for. The steering wheel is way off again and I will try to adjust it out but may very likely have to cut and stretch the drag link.

And there we have it; DYI upgraded suspension with 20-1/2" tires on a 2008 DS. A big shout out of thanks goes to Golf Cart Wizard for advice and the benefit of his experience. I will update later when I get the steering wheel centered up and I still need to see how this affects my overall speed and torque. I have a steep hill where I used to get 11-12 MPH uphill so I have somewhere to test the torque for comparison.

The tires are loadstar 205/65-10 on plain black steelies. They will have to do for now.
 

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