1995 36 Volt EZGO Solenoid Clicks But Golf Cart Won't Run


New Member
The Cart ran fine and then stopped working after the kids were driving it for most of the day. I have been all over checking the forums and running test. Here is what I know:

36 volt – Batteries are charged!

F/R switch is under leg

When I press the go pedal, I the solenoid clicks (just once not all the time) but the golf cart won't run.

The micro switch under floor mat has continuity.

ITS micro switch – checked out ok!

Reverse buzzer works – After bypassed bad reed switch!

I have jumped the solenoid by using a 6 ga wire and connecting ONLY the two large terminals – Nothing happens.

I have jumped B- and M- and nothing happens!

Motor Turns - I have completed the motor test - Put a jumper wire from a "A" terminal to an "S" terminal. (Example: A1 to S1)...Then touched the A2 and S2 to the 36volt batteries. It turned not real fast.

After motor test, hooked everything up, with by passed reed switch, step on go pedal and everything was fine. Lowered cart and drove about 50 feet and it died again! Rechecked everything…including Motor test….all check out. Any Ideas.


Welcome to the forum.

I would say it's a bad connection somewhere. Try checking ALL cable connections including at the motor. Also look close at the forward and reverse switch for signs of heat and loose cables.
One thing I would say is check the solenoid to see if you have 36v to it.... but make sure you don't have 36v out of it with the pedal off! I have seen the same thing happen and the solenoid was stuck open. 36v in and 36v out without the pedal depressed.


New Member
Just checked the solenoid, I do have 36+ volts to all post (2 large & 2 small) with pedal off! When I pressed the pedal down, all except the small right one had 36+ still and the small right one had zero. What should the be with the pedal down and up? Is there a way to bypass / check the solenoid if it is stuck open? Do you have a suggestion where to buy a solenoid? Thanks!

20" Buttons

New Member
as a foot note to what the others have said---remove the speed controller cover or look to see if maybe water got to it.. if its the original curtis controller and it got wet-probably burned up.. mine is the same- it goes slow as a snail then stops and every thing in it is new---except that!

let us know what you find


New Member
Thanks for the info! I received the diagnostics for the early DCS 95 and it does indicate an open solenoid as you suggested. I am awaiting the new solenoid, coming this week, and will report back once I install. All areas didn't show any indication of moisture.......I am hoping it is not the controller.


New Member
Replaced the solenoid, it still only clicks. I ran all DCS Troubleshooting Sequence per Manual. Everything checks out! The only thing I notice is that the warning buzzer beeps rapidly after the 'Run' position is selected on the Run/Tow. It says the beeping indicates incorrect wiring, however, it did this prior to me switching out the solenoid as well. I thought it was doing this because of the bad/stuck open solenod.

The only wiring that was change after the cart stop working is the reed switch, I bypassed it (twisted together) because the glass was broke! The voltage reading on F1 & F2 jumps all over when I switch it from Tow to run (while the is rapid beeping is sounding), if I engage the gas pedal and the solenoid clicks it stays around 8 volts on F1 & F2. Is there a voltage reading for F1 & F2? I did run the low voltage motor check again and was unable to get the motor to spin now. The cart charges fine and all cable have been checked! What am I missing? Bad Motor the cause for the rapid beeping? :wallbash: