1994 Electric Club Car Wiring General Issue


Cartaholic - V.I.P.
I have a 1994 Electric DS Trans Sender with a series motor, that has been up upgraded from 36V to 48V. It has an onboard Lester Summit II charger, so the Charger port and OBC have been removed. The only original part of the electrical system is the Pot, which is a multistep v-glide resister type. I have a SR48500 controller, a D&D High Torque Motor, MZJ-400A Solenoid w/new Resistor and Diode. It quit running and I determined that it was the Solenoid, so I have replaced it, with the above solenoid. In the process I'm trying to trace the wiring and make my own diagram and check all wiring. It's been through a number of changes and some of the wire colors are different. I cannot find any wiring diagrams that seem to be for this cart.

So, please look over this and see if you think it is correct. There are two issues:

1) The new FnR Switch has these pig tails on Micro Switches #'s 2 & 3. There are 3 pigtails each and the previous one only had 2 tabs, one upper and one lower. What does the 3rd pigtail do?

2) This is my current wiring as I have been able to determine. Does it sound correct?

  • Blue Wire - to Small positive post on Solenoid
  • Green/White - to lower tab on MS #1
  • Black wire - two connections: Middle pigtail of MS #3, and to J4 on controller
  • White wire - MS#3 Lower pigtail; and to Controller J5
F&R Switch - Microswitches
  • MS #1 - Upper tab White/Black to Key Switch; Lower Tab Green/White to V-Glide
  • MS #2 - Upper pigtail is Empty (was the red/white wire to the old Charger Receptacle; Middle pigtail two Orange wires for reverse Buzzer; Lower pigtail Empty.
  • MS #3 - Upper pigtail Empty; Middle pigtail Black wire to Controller J4; Lower pigtail White Wire to Controller J5
  • Yellow wire - Small Negative Post to B- on Controller
  • Green wire - Large Positive Post to Key switch
  • Red Wire - Small Positive Post to KS1 on Controller
  • Blue wire - Small Positive Post to V-Glide
  • J5 - 2 White wires: one from the Pot; one from MS#3 lower pigtail
  • J4 - 2 Black wires: one from the Pot; one from MS#3 middle Pigtail
  • KS1 - Red wire to Solenoid Small Positive Post
  • Yellow wire - B- to Solenoid the Small Negative post
All of the heavy cables are correct so I didn't list them. Those Pigtails confuse me since there were only two tabs on each MS and now MS's 2 & 3 have 3 pigtails and no instruction of what they are or how they correspond to old ones.

I know this is a lot, and I hope some can comment. I have some pics, but they don't help me much other than to show the connections, but not the tracing. Attached a few anyway.

Thank you, Joe


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Golf Cart Wizard

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Here is the wiring diagram:

As for the FNR just ignore the wire colors pretend the wires are the tabs. The third tab is extra, see the difference. Top is common, middle is NO and bottom is NC


Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Wizard, Thank you for you quick reply. I have that wiring diagram, and have been using it the most. It still has the OBC and Charger Port on it and mine doesn't have either anymore. I think I may have gotten around those, but that's why I listed my wiring the way I did just incase I didn't wire it correctly without the OBC and the Charger Port. The wiring Diagram from the Alltrax Controller is also a little different. Looks like they may has a 3-wire Pot and mine is a 2-Wire.

The Microswitches are still a little bit of a mystery. #1 is only 2 tabs, like the the original FnR. When you said the 3rd pigtail is Extra, which is it? I have been ignoring the color of the pigtails already. Some units had them colored similar to the wires that go on there, but others, like mine, appear to be colored just so to distinguish them. So, is the top pigtail not needed and the other two match the tabs as before? I under stand Normally On (NO) and Normally Closed (NC), but that doesn't tell me which wire goes to those pigtails. I'm not a pro or an EE. I need slow people instructions.

Again thank you for responding and so quickly. I'm trying to get Alltrax to tell me how their controller connection match the old Curtis controller. The heavy power cables are marked the same but the small control wires are marked differently.


Golf Cart Wizard

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Look at the picture of the microswitches there’s a 3 tab and 2 tab version. Both microswitches are the same thing one is just missing a tab. The wires coming out of the microswitch are in the same order as the 3 tab microswitch pictured above. If you only had a 2 tab then don’t hook up the wire that corresponds with the extra tab not present on the original microswitches.


Cartaholic - V.I.P.
OK, Wizard, so I gather what you are saying is the Middle tab is the one I ignore since the original MSs didn't have a middle tab. The logic is there I guess. Thanks again.


Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Much Thanks, wizard! That makes sense. I'm a visual learner, and a logical one.

Just curious, but do you know why some of the FnR switches have three connections? I gather it's for different models and different systems.:)


Cartaholic - V.I.P.
OK, I was just felling better about those microswitches and throw that wrench in the gears. So, are you know saying something different? Is that lower pigtail needed now or not. I don't know which circuits need a NC or not. I just want to know how to wire it according to my system My old FnR was clear. Two tabs on each switch. I never knew or needed to know if they were NC or NO. Now I have three choices and I don't want to but another FnR switch to solve it if I can help it. I bought the one someone recommended that I get and it should work . . . if I can wire it properly. So, are you now saying that it's not necessarily the lower pigtail that I do not use in my case? That may be good information to have if it affects my situation, but I don't know.


Cartaholic - V.I.P.
OK, one last question. I had removed the Charger receptacle and the wiring diagram shows a Red/White wire from it to MS# 2. I currently have nothing there and the Reverse Buzzers do not work. It appears that the Buzzers get their Positive from the Key Switch. Should I have a wire to that MS from a Ground?

Golf Cart Wizard

Cartaholic - V.I.P.
OK, one last question. I had removed the Charger receptacle and the wiring diagram shows a Red/White wire from it to MS# 2. I currently have nothing there and the Reverse Buzzers do not work. It appears that the Buzzers get their Positive from the Key Switch. Should I have a wire to that MS from a Ground?
Yes. Many people disable the buzzer that is probably why the wire is gone


Cartaholic - V.I.P.
Thanks, Wizard. Figures, but it should be a ground wire there if I wanted it to buzz? The wiring diagrams had a R/W wire coming from the old Fuse/Charger receptacle, which I don't have any longer.