Hi... We are new to the golf carts. Got the cart recently and have a problem of melting coil no 3. We replaced the coil only to have the new one melt. Bought new batteries, replaced all 6 gauge cables with 4 gauge and replaced the coil. After reading some of the forum postings.... cleaned the speed control contacts (3 & 4 had corrosion connecting them). I ran some voltage readings.... 37.5 volts across batteries. With key on, forward position.... had power on the right side and the two small wire connectors on the solenoid (with pedal pushed down) but no power on the output side of the solenoid. Figured that the solenoid was faulty (no click) and purchased a new one. The new one is giving the same results as the old one. We had tried to jump the old solenoid with a 4 gauge cable.... ( as suggested in another posting) but got such a spark that we pulled it away, thinking that we might fry something if we continued. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
1988 electric EZGO no go
- Thread starter yugyhs12
- Start date
BadToTheBone
Moderator
1988 would be a series motor.
SERIES wound motor test:
Jack the rear tires of the ground and put the cart on jack stands...
Remove the main positive and negative cables form the battery pack...
Spray the 4 studs on the motor with a little penetrating oil...
Mark the cables then remove all four cables from the motor (use a wrench to hold the jam nuts)...
Put a jumper wire from a "A" terminal to an "S" terminal. (Example: A1 to S1)...
Then hook a 12 volt battery or 12 volt battery charger in the 15+ amp range to the remaining "A" and "S" terminal (Example A2 and S2)...
Testing a SepEx, Regen, Shunt Motor:
To test a SepEx, shunt wound regen motor you jump the S1 to A1 and the S2 to A2 terminals. This is two separate connections. Take 12V positive and hook to the S1/A1 combination and 12V negative goes to the S2/A2 combination.
If the motor spins it's good...
SERIES wound motor test:
Jack the rear tires of the ground and put the cart on jack stands...
Remove the main positive and negative cables form the battery pack...
Spray the 4 studs on the motor with a little penetrating oil...
Mark the cables then remove all four cables from the motor (use a wrench to hold the jam nuts)...
Put a jumper wire from a "A" terminal to an "S" terminal. (Example: A1 to S1)...
Then hook a 12 volt battery or 12 volt battery charger in the 15+ amp range to the remaining "A" and "S" terminal (Example A2 and S2)...
Testing a SepEx, Regen, Shunt Motor:
To test a SepEx, shunt wound regen motor you jump the S1 to A1 and the S2 to A2 terminals. This is two separate connections. Take 12V positive and hook to the S1/A1 combination and 12V negative goes to the S2/A2 combination.
If the motor spins it's good...