1974 36V Golfster Cushman Wiring

Fogofgrass

Fogofgrass

New Member
Hello,
I will keep the intro brief. basically this was a cart that was in storage for so long I forgot the proper way it should be wired, if it was correct to begin with.

I can get the cart to go, but terminals on batteries get extremely warm, some would say hot. I currently have a wire to the solenoid up to the #6 negative which I know is probably not correct but it at least allows me to get it moved when needed. I tried body grounding off Batt 1 to frame, no go. The solenoid is brand new but is showing voltage passing at all times.

I have included some pics as well as a diagram of the current wiring. I would truly appreciate and assistance from someone with experience on these. She's rough but wanted to see about getting it rolling again before I dump time/money into restoring.

Thank you for taking a look and please let me know if any more information is needed.
 

Attachments

  • Cushman Battery.webp
    Cushman Battery.webp
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  • Cushman Solenoid.webp
    Cushman Solenoid.webp
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  • 1974 CUSHMAN GOLFSTER.pdf
    1974 CUSHMAN GOLFSTER.pdf
    67.1 KB · Views: 9
Fogofgrass said:
Hello,
I will keep the intro brief. basically this was a cart that was in storage for so long I forgot the proper way it should be wired, if it was correct to begin with.

I can get the cart to go, but terminals on batteries get extremely warm, some would say hot. I currently have a wire to the solenoid up to the #6 negative which I know is probably not correct but it at least allows me to get it moved when needed. I tried body grounding off Batt 1 to frame, no go. The solenoid is brand new but is showing voltage passing at all times.

I have included some pics as well as a diagram of the current wiring. I would truly appreciate and assistance from someone with experience on these. She's rough but wanted to see about getting it rolling again before I dump time/money into restoring.

Thank you for taking a look and please let me know if any more information is needed.
Click to expand...
 

Attachments

  • Cushman_Wiring_Diagram_36.webp
    Cushman_Wiring_Diagram_36.webp
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Fogofgrass said:
Hello,
I will keep the intro brief. basically this was a cart that was in storage for so long I forgot the proper way it should be wired, if it was correct to begin with.

I can get the cart to go, but terminals on batteries get extremely warm, some would say hot. I currently have a wire to the solenoid up to the #6 negative which I know is probably not correct but it at least allows me to get it moved when needed. I tried body grounding off Batt 1 to frame, no go. The solenoid is brand new but is showing voltage passing at all times.

I have included some pics as well as a diagram of the current wiring. I would truly appreciate and assistance from someone with experience on these. She's rough but wanted to see about getting it rolling again before I dump time/money into restoring.

Thank you for taking a look and please let me know if any more information is needed.
Click to expand...
is this it above ?

check this link to get more info on your cart

What Year is My Cushman Golf Cart?

Trying to find or identify the year of your Cushman golf cart? Follow our simple 2 step process using the serial tag lookup!
www.golfcartgarage.com www.golfcartgarage.com
 
Hi. Thanks to you both for the reply. I’ve found that schematic before and the year of mine is not in the list. I did my best to follow that diagram as well as other resources to give this a shot. Obviously I’m missing a step or misunderstanding. Far from being a golf cart genius but I can fix your computer!
 

Attachments

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Fogofgrass said:
Hi. Thanks to you both for the reply. I’ve found that schematic before and the year of mine is not in the list. I did my best to follow that diagram as well as other resources to give this a shot. Obviously I’m missing a step or misunderstanding. Far from being a golf cart genius but I can fix your computer!
Click to expand...
do you know what voltage your solenoid requires ?
your pic shows it connected to 6V
and that connection is also a catch 22
the solenoid cannot operate until the pedal has voltage
the pedal cannot have voltage until the solenoid turns it on

1716408637662.webp
 
Jeff10456 said:
do you know what voltage your solenoid requires ?
your pic shows it connected to 6V
and that connection is also a catch 22
the solenoid cannot operate until the pedal has voltage
the pedal cannot have voltage until the solenoid turns it on

View attachment 14786
Click to expand...
edit to above:
if the cart runs why do you think it may be wired wrong?

if your battery connections are getting hot then they have corrosion or something causing resistance
take them off and clean them and the post, then put them back, one by one and then coat the entire connection with battery terminal sealer

look inside each cell of each battery and make sure that the acid is covering the plates and is almost up to the neck at the bottom of the cap
if the liquid is low and needs filling , use Distilled Water Only..... not drinking water, not filtered , not from the tap

electric vehicles do not and should not use the frame for any current carrying task
do not ground the frame

if your solenoid is always "On" while the key is "Off", then it is either incorrectly wired that way, or it has welded the main contacts
buy a very good grade with the correct control voltage and the correct amp rating for the power contacts (usually two hundred amps or more), dont cheap out on this or you will replace it often
 
Hi, Jeff. Thanks for the reply. The solenoid is new and I replaced with what was there just in case. I guess it’s possible I fried it when messing around but if I believe I was having the same issue with the old one which leads me to believe it’s how it’s wired up rather than cooked. On the ground issue the cart will run with that white wire coming off the solenoid to the negative on battery 1. But things I was reading says that’s a no no. What’s your thought on that?

I will get in and clean the posts and check fluid levels.
 

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Fogofgrass said:
Hi, Jeff. Thanks for the reply. The solenoid is new and I replaced with what was there just in case. I guess it’s possible I fried it when messing around but if I believe I was having the same issue with the old one which leads me to believe it’s how it’s wired up rather than cooked. On the ground issue the cart will run with that white wire coming off the solenoid to the negative on battery 1. But things I was reading says that’s a no no. What’s your thought on that?

I will get in and clean the posts and check fluid levels.
Click to expand...
what things were you reading that said its a no no? and why ?

the label in the pic says
1) the coil (small terminals) is 36V so yes you can apply full pack V to it
2) the power contacts are rated for 36V but there is no amp rating

the amps and not the volts is what will weld the contacts , if they are welded
golf carts use amps in the hundreds. plus it is DC which is more likely to weld a contact

remove one of the wires on the small terminals and check for continuity across the large terminals
this should show open, i.e. infinite resistance (what the meter shows when both leads are in the air)
if it shows minimal or zero resistance, it is welded (what the meter shows when both leads are together)

if the solenoid is welded, buy a good golf cart solenoid yes it will be expensive, but its still cheaper than replacing it once a day
 
the solenoid wiring to the small terminals should be from the key and B- (aka batt6 neg)

your drawing is very confusing
i think some of it is incorrect
and i am certain it is in-complete
what you showed wont work
 
:dazed:

If the wiring is really that far gone on an old cart like that I just gut everything and convert them to controller

One thing to consider on these old carts is 36v electronics were never super common especially 50 years ago so many of these old carts use 6v or 12v solenoids wired to 1 or 2 batteries, make sure you are looking at the coil voltage rating and hooking to the appropriate battery.
 
Golf Cart Wizard said:
:dazed:

If the wiring is really that far gone on an old cart like that I just gut everything and convert them to controller

One thing to consider on these old carts is 36v electronics were never super common especially 50 years ago so many of these old carts use 6v or 12v solenoids wired to 1 or 2 batteries, make sure you are looking at the coil voltage rating and hooking to the appropriate battery.
Click to expand...
the pic he posted of the solenoid box shows 36V
so what ever it used to be it is now 36V
unless there is other things in the system that wont stand full packV, he should be able to run it that way
 
Jeff10456 said:
the key should connect to Batt6+ (aka B+) (aka pack+)

any 36V solenoid should connect from the Key (by what ever route) and the white wire on Batt1- (aka B-) (aka pack-)

if the solenoid is any lesser voltage the white wire should connect to the Batt negative that will give the correct voltage

View attachment 14811
Click to expand...
another thought on this .....
if the Reverse Buzzer or any other devices are rated for less than 36V
then you will need a solenoid of that voltage
as well as moving the white wire of the solenoid to the appropriate batt neg

this may be the reason that you read about where to hook the solenoid to which battery
as GCW said they didnt use higher voltage parts back then
i have seen at least two drawings that showed a neg tap from mid pack (18V)
 
Jeff10456 said:
another thought on this .....
if the Reverse Buzzer or any other devices are rated for less than 36V
then you will need a solenoid of that voltage
as well as moving the white wire of the solenoid to the appropriate batt neg

this may be the reason that you read about where to hook the solenoid to which battery
as GCW said they didnt use higher voltage parts back then
i have seen at least two drawings that showed a neg tap from mid pack (18V)
Click to expand...
a further thought on this ....

on your drawing you show the key red wire and the charge-port red wire going to Batt1+
But in the pic you posted
i only find one red wire going to Batt1+ , where does it connect on the other end ?
also i see a blue wire going to Batt1+ , where does it connect on the other end ?
also i see a black wire going to Batt6- , where does it connect on the other end ?

if you believe all of your system is wired correctly (Except the battery/power connections)
and if you can determine the voltage of the brake and or reverse buzzer to be 24V
then get a 24 volt solenoid and connect the white wire to batt6-
now you can leave your key connected as you show it in your drawing red wire to batt1+
but not your charge port positive wire

this circuit actually goes from Batt2- to Batt5+ and omits Batt.s 1&6
if you prefer, you can connect those wires to those terminals

this will actually apply 24V to your key system, including the solenoid, brake and/or reverse buzzer

the power circuit for the solenoid contact, batteries, and motor will still be 36VDC
the charge port positive wire needs to go to B6+ ... and Neg wire to B1-
 
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